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CCFYRIGHT DEPOSKR 



DRAFTING 

Cotton Garments and cMackinaws 



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Harry $imons 

Technical Editor of The Clofhing, 
<r Desig,nei~ & (^Manufacturer^ and 
cv4ufhoi~ of "Science of Grading,"; 
"'Designing, Overcoats" ; "^Drafting, 
^Pants and Overalls"; "Designing, 
Sack Coats, Dress Coats and Vests" 



Copyright 191< 



/ 



(Published by" 

Tlie Cloftung, ^Desi^ner^ Company 

70 Fiffh c4venue, cNew York City 



Page Two 



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<v 



Introduction 



(F 



HE drafting of Cotton Garments and Mackinaws sa 
explained in this volume, is very simple and can be easily 
understood by the ordinary layman. 



(§ The system which is minutely described can be depended 
upon to give the reader immediate and satisfactory results. 
The author has endeavored to explain to the reader the 
different allowances to be used on various style garments as 
well as the variety of fabrics. 

^ The drafts are all made by the proportionate method, 
using the breast measure as the keynote and guide to obtain 
the sectional measurements. 

Ifl Every style garment can be created from the points des- 
cribed in this book. 

C| It is the intention of the author in publishing this book 
to give to the Cotton Garment Industry a thoroly reliable 
and simple method of drafting the various Cotton Garments 
that they manufacture. 

HARRY SIMONS, Author 



/# 



3 



©CI.A501987 
OCT -1 1918 



Ind 



ex 



Preliminary Instruction 4 

Construction Lines for the Back 5 

Drafting the Forepart 6-7 

Drafting the Under Collar 8-9 

Stock Sack Coat 10-11 

Work Coat 12-13 

Stout Work Coat 14-15 

Barber's Coat - 16-17 

No Collar Barber's Coat 18-19 

Hunting Coat 20-21 

Grocer's Gown 22-23 

Military Blouse 24-25 

Boys' Work Coat 26-27 

Bar Vest 28-29 

Three Buttoned Double Breasted 

Shawl Collar Mackinaw 30-31 

Drafting Shawl Collars 32 

Making a Whole Back 33 

Convertible Collar Mackinaw 34-35 

Military Collar Mackinaw 36-37 

Stout Mackinaw 38-39 

Shawl Collar Mackinaw — Raglan 

Sleeve 40-41 

Making Longs and Shorts from Reg- 
ular Block 42-43 

Mail Order Changes 44-45-46 

Making a Box Back from a Regular 

Sack Coat 46 

Men's and Boys' Proportions 47 

Books . 48 

Patterns 48 

School 48 



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Page Three 




Preliminary Instruction 

HE drafts illustrated in this 
book are either size 36 or 38, 
except in the case of stouts, 
which are drafted size 40. 
These are considered the 
model sizes that are generally 
used in the "ready-made" 
houses. When a model is per- 
fected and passed upon, as is the usual custom, 
it is then graded up and down to the various 
sizes required. 

For the Beginner 

In drafting these garments, a knowledge of 
the tailor square is absolutely essential ; other- 
wise the student will become confused. When 
^ cixtn of breast is quoted, the average student 
will immediately say 1/6 of 36 is 6 inches. In 
the case of drafting 1/6 of 36 is 1/6 of 18 on the 
sixth scale, inasmuch as only one side of the 
garment is drafted. The only place throughout 
the system where this differs is on the breast 
measure, where one-half of the actual measure 
of draft is applied. For example, if the breast 
measure is 36 inches, 18 inches is given. 

All regular sack models are figured on a basis 
of 5 feet 8 inches in height. The sleeve inseam 
is figured 18 inches. The draft on creating 
longs and shorts explains clearly how the 
heights are figured. 

A full list of proportions will be found on the 
last page of this book, which will act as a guide 
to draft the various sizes. 

In drafting for wholesale or "ready-made'' 
concerns, no short measures are necessary. The 
proportions are figured on the average built 
model for the given size of an average height 
The system here taught will automatically bring 
out the various sectional measures by using the 
divisions of the breast measure. 



Memorizing Imperative 

It is absolutely imperative to memorize the 
text of the first three diagrams, as the entire 
method is based on the points explained in them 
There are slight deviations on some of the othei 
drafts to get the desired effects. These changes 
are explained wherever they appear. 

Every point that is necessary in the drafting 
<>f Cotton Garments and Mackinaws will br 
found within the pages of this book. Some of 
the best known designers attribute their success 
to the use of this system, as it is so simple and 
efficient. The best possible results as to bal- 
ance and fit have been obtained through it for 
years. 




Diagram A 

It is not a matter of guess or theory. It is 
the results of twenty-five years' experience with 
the largest concerns in the country. No de- 
signer or cutter need hesitate to use this system 

Diagram A. This explains the location of the 
measurements taken. 

Line A is the neck point. 

Line B is the height of shoulder. 

Line C is the breast line. 

Line D is the waistline. 

Line E is the seat line. 

Line F is the length of sack. If an overcoat, 
the length is made accordingly. 



Page Four 



— G 



_al_io. _-,«- 



- c 



--D 



D\a 1 



6i_L5 

Construction Lines for Drafting the Back 

THIS draft explains the points on the back 
for conservative Palm Beach sack coat. 
Allowances should be made for double 
needle machine. 

Measurements: Breast 36 inches. 

Draw line 2-A-G-B-C-D-E-F. 

2 to A is % inch. 

B is X A of 19 from A. This you will note is 
figured on a basis of 2 sizes larger than the 
breast measure. This only applies to the depth 
of scye. 

C is y 2 of 19 from A. 

D is 17% inches from A, y 4 of the total 
height, 5 feet 8 inches. 

E is 23 inches from A. 

F is the full length, 30 inches in this case. 

G is half way between A and B. 

Square out from points 2-A-G-B-C-D-E-F. 

H is % inch from D. 

J is % inch from F. 

Draw line G-H-F. 

K is 1/3 of 18 from C. 




K to 3 is 2 inches. 

Square up from 3 to 7, which will establish 
points 8 and 9. 

L is 1/3 of breast from H. 

L to 4 is % inch. 

Square up and down from 4. 

5 is squared from 4. 
10 is squared from 4. 

6 is % inch from 5. 

DRAFTING THE BACK. 

Continue from Diagram 1. 

12 is 1/6 of breast from A. 

13 is squared from 12. 

14 is % from 13. 
Draw line 2-14. 

15 is % inch from 8. 
Draw line 14-15. 

16 is 1/12 of breast from 3. 

17 is % from 16. 

18 is y 4 from 17. 

Shape the line 15-18 and then draw the centei 
seam and side-seam, which finishes the back. 

(Continued on next page) 

Page Five 



Drafting the Forepart 

(Conservative Sack) 
Diagram III 



The back of this draft is drafted the same as 
the previous diagram. 

20 is 2/3 of 18 from C. 

21 is 1% inches from 20. 
Square up from 21 to 22. 

22 to 23 is 1/6 of breast plus V 2 inch. 
Draw line 23-15. 

23 to 25 is X A inch less than 14 to 15. 
26 is % from 25. 

Shape the shoulder and armhole 26-23 and 
26-27. 

17 to X is % inch. 

28 is % inch from 4. 

29 is 2*4 inches from 11. 

30 is the length of side-seam of forepart 
which is the same as 18-6. 

Shape the side-seam, as illustrated. 

31 is 18 inches from 24, % of the actual 
breast measure. 

32 is 2V 2 inches from 31. 

33 is 1% inches from 32. 

34 is squared from 33. 

35 is 1/6 of breast from 34. 
Shape the gorge 23-35. 

36 is 2 inches from 35. 

37 is squared from 33. 

38 is % inch from 37. 

39 is squared from 21. 

40 is squared from 37. 

41 is obtained by sweeping the distance 23-30 
from 30, using point 23 as a pivot. 

42 is obtained by squaring line 38-39. 

43 is 2/3 of the breast from 21. 

44 and 45 are 2> x /± inches each from 43. 
Shape the front and bottom, which completes 

the draft. 



Page Six 




Diagram III 



Page Seven 



Drafting the Under Collar 

Diagram IV 



ALL sack coat collars, single or double 
breasted, are drafted by this method. The 
leaf of the double breasted coats are made 
one-quarter inch wider. 

Extend the break A-B to C. 

Draw line J-E parallel to A-B. 

N to D is l x /4 inches. 

D to J is Vi inch. 

D to E is the width of back. 

E to F is x /4 inch allowed extra for fullness. 

Square up from F to K. 

K to L is a /i inch. 

C to K is 2% inches, the width of turnover. 
This can be made in various widths. 

B to I is % inch. 

G to H is X A inch. 

Draw line K-H. 

Shape the bottom part F-J-I-H and see that it 
has the same run as the gorge D-B-G. 

Draw lines B-C-L and L-M. 

Shape the notch M-H, which completes the 
under collar. 




Paae Eight 



Regular Sleeves 

Diagram V 

THIS sleeve can be used to all regular coat drafts. 
The ball of sleeve gives about two inches fullness 
for top sleeve and there should be 3-4 inch fullness for 
undersleeve. Measurements: size 36 in. inseam 1 8 in. 

DRAFT 

Draw line ADCB. 

A to D is 1/12 of 18. 

D to C is Vi of 18. 

C to B is 18 inches, the inseam. 

V is half way between C and D. 

Square out from points ADCVB. 

C to E is 1^4 inches. 

EF is y 2 of 18. 

Square up and down from point F. 

K is half way between J and A. 

L is half way between A and K. 

Shape the top sleeve F-K-E. 

C to N and C to M are 1*4 inches each. 

Shape E-N. 

B to O is % inch. 

to R and to P are iVi inches each. 

Draw lines M-R and N-P. 

Shape the inseam of sleeve N-P. 

to S is half of che bottom of sleeve plus % 
inch. 

Square down from S to T. 

S to T is 1% inches. 

Shape the outside seam F-H-G-T, coming out 
V2 inch at point G. 

Shape the bottom T-O-P, which finishes the 
top sleeve. 

UNDER SLEEVE 

F to Y is 1 inch. 

Draw line J-U. 

Shape the line Y-M. 

Shape the inseam M-R and the outside seam 
Y-T. 

Draw the bottom T-R, which completes the 
draft. 



— -1— , H 




Paae Nine 



Stout Sack Coat 



T 



Diagram VI 

HIS draft is for a normal Stout figure, 5 ft. 7 in. in height. Full explanation is given as 
to the proper distribution of fat at the waist. Every detail should be carefully memo- 
rized. 



MEASUREMENTS. 

Breast 40 inches. 
Waist 40 inches. 
Length 31 inches. 

DRAFT— BACK. 

Draw line ABCDEFGH. 
A to B is % inch. 
B to C is y 4 of 21. 
B to E is y 2 of 21. 
D is half way between B and C. 
B to F is 17y 2 inches. 
B to G is 26 inches (seat line). 
B to H is the full length of 31 inches. 
Square out from points ABCDEFGH. 
F to K is % inch. 
H to J is Vi inch. 
Draw line A-K-J. 
E to M is 1/3 of 20 plus 2 inches. 
Square up from M to P. 
M to L is % inch. 
Square down from L to R. 
B to N is 1/6 of 20 plus V 2 inch. 
N to is 1 inch. 
Draw line A-O. 
U to 2 is % inch. 
Draw line 0-2. 
M to V is 1/12 of breast. 

Come out 3 /4 inch from point V to the point of 
side-seam. 

R to S is % inch. 

Draw line V-T-S, which completes the back. 

FOREPART. 

E to 3 is 2/3 of breast plus IV2 inches. 
Square up from 3 to 4 and down from 3 to 11. 
4 to 5 is 1/6 of 20. 

E to X is % of breast (measure from the cen- 
ter seam of back). 



X to Y is 2 x / 2 inches. 

Y to Z is IV2 inches. 

Square up from Z to 7. . 

Draw line 5-U. 

26 is half way between 25 and U. 

5 to 23 is % less than 2 to 0. 

7 to 6 is 1/6 of breast. 

Draw line 6-4, dropping y 2 inch from point 4. 

Shape the gorge 5-8-9. 

Shape the armhole 23-24. 

Square down from Z to 12. 

12 to 13 is 1 inch. (This is 1 inch for fat, or 
in otherwords, 2/3 or y 2 of the fat is applied at 
the front of the waistline. 

The balance 1/3 of y 2 of the fat is divided 
equally between the side-seams of the forepart 
and back. 

In figuring the fat, the regular proportions 
are 40 breast, 37 waist, and the proportions on 
a regular stout is 40 breast, 40 waist. The dif- 
ference between the stout waist measure and 
the regular waist measure is what we call fat; 
therefore you will note that on a 40 stout we 
have inches of fat, ] / 2 being applied to the 
draft; that is, 1 inch at the front and y 2 inch 
at the side-seams. 

Square down from 13 to 16. 

The side-seams cross at point T. 

21 to 20 is 2Y2 inches. 

Draw line V-T-20-22, which is the same length 
as V-T-S. 

8 to 9 is 3 inches. 

Make the notch of lapel 2% inches wide. 

Z to 10 is 2y 2 inches. 

Shape lapel front and bottom. 

Split the draft at point 19 to pocket at point 
17. 

Take in y 2 inch plait at point 18, using point 
17 as a pivot. This will open the Vee at point 
19, as required. 

Then straighten out bottom and fill in side- 
seam a trifle, which completes the draft. 



Page Ten 




Diagram VI 



Page Elevi 



Work Coat 



Diagram VIII 



IN this draft all allowances are made for 
double needle machine work. This being 
the basic draft for all garments of this kind 
shown in this volume, every point should be 
memorized. Breast size 36. 

THE DRAFT (BACK) 

Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F-G. 

A to B is IV2 inches. 

B to C is % of 19. 

B to D is % of 19. (This measurement is al- 
ways V2 of two sizes larger than the breast size.) 

B to E is 17% inches. 

B to F is 25 inches (seat line). 

B to G is 31 inches. 

Square out from points A-B-C-D-E-F-G. 

G to H is 1 inch. 

Draw line B-H. 

B to J is 1/6 of breast plus % inch. 

K to L is % inch on all sizes. 

Draw line A-L. 

D to M is 1/3 of 18 plus 2% inches. 

Square up from M to N. 

P is half way between N and line C. 

Draw line L-P, as illustrated, extending the 
point of shoulder y 2 inch bevond line M-N 

M to R is 1/12 of breast. 

R to S is 3 /4 inch. 

Draw P-S, the back part of arm hole. 

M to O is % inch. 

Square down from O to T. 

T to U is V 2 inch. 

Draw line S-14-U, which completes the back. 

For a whole back take off Vx inch on line A-H. 
THE FOREPART. 

D to V is 1/3 of breast plus 1% inches. 

Square up from V to W. 

W to X is 1/6 of breast. 

X to 2 is 1% inches. 

10 to 11 is y 2 inch. 

Draw line 2-X-P and 2-11. 

2 to 11 is V4 inch less than L to P. 

Shape the arm hole, 11-S. 

Point 12 is y 2 inch from line O-T. 

14 to 13 is 2y 4 inches. 

Shape the side seam, S-12-13, which is the 
same length as S-14-U. 

D to Y is 19 inches, or y 
than the breast. 

Y to Z is 2y 2 inches. 

Z to 3 is iy 2 inches. 

Square up from 3 to 4 and down from 3 to 9. 

2 to 6 is 1/6 of breast. 

Square down from 6 to 7, which is 1/6 of 
breast. 

Come out IV2 inches from point 7 for stand. 

Come in •% inch at point 9 to get run of front. 

Shape neck and front as illustrated. 

The buttons are placed 1*4 inches from front 
edge. 

THE SLEEVE 

Draw line A-B-C. 

B to D is y 4 of 19. 

D to E is 1/12 of 19. 

B to C is 1 inch more than the inseam of 
sleeve, which is 19 inches in this case. 

Square out from point A and square both 



of two sizes larger 




ways from points D-B and C. 

Line S-K is y 2 way between B and C. 

J to F is % inch less than V2 of 18. 

Square down from F to L and up from F to E. 

A to H is 1/3 of the distance of A to E. 

Draw line H-J. 

D to P is y 2 inch less than D to F. 

Square down from P to S. 

Shape line F-J-P. 

K is V2 inch from line E-L. 

C to M is 6% inches. 

C to N is 6% inches. 

Draw line F-K-M and line P-O-N. 

Hollow bottom 1 inch at point C. 

Shape the bottom N-M, which completes the 
sleeve. 

THE COLLAR 

Draw line 1-2-3. 

1 to 2 is 3 /4 inch. 

2 to 3 is 8% inches. 

Square down from points 1-2-3. 

3 to 6 is 1 inch. 

6 to 5 is 4 inches. 

Square out from points 6 and 5. 

4 to 8 is 1 inch. 

Shape lines 2-6 and 8-5 as illustrated, which 
completes the collar. 

For other sizes of collar, the collar is to be 
made Vs inch longer of shorter, as the case 
may be. 



Pane Twelve 




Diagram VIII 



Page Thirteen 



Stout Work Coat 



Diagram XI 

CHANGES made from a regular work coat to 
a stout work coat are somewhat similar to 
the changes made from a regular sack coat 
to a stout sack coat (as explained in a previous 
diagram), with the exceptions that the under- 
arm vee is not split thru the pocket, but is 
opened up one-half inch. A cut is made from 
12 to 14 and the coat is spread at point 12, % 
inch. The diagram here illustrated is for size 
42 breast, 42 waist. From 8 to 9 one inch is 
given for the fat, the balance is added at the 
side seams at points S and T. The collar is 
drafted similar to the regular work coat collar. 
The sleeve should be made 1 inch shorter than 
the regular work coat sleeve. 



Page Fourteen 




Diagram XI 



Paqe Fifteen 



Barbers' Coat 



Diagram X 



THIS garment is made with a military stand- 
ing collar which buttons to the neck. The 
top patch should be made 5 x / 2 inches wide 
and 6V2 inches deep. The lower patch should be 
made 6V2 inches wide and 8V2 inches deep. An 
extra allowance should be made for seams. The 
button stand is 1V 4 inches from the edge. To 
use this pattern for a double-needle machine, an 
extra allowance of 54 inch should be made at 
the shoulder and side-seam of forepart. The 
same sleeve can be drafted for this garment as 
is used and explained with the work coat dia- 
gram. Breast size 38, waist 35 inches. 

THE DRAFT 

Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H. 
A to B is 54 inch. 
B to C is % of B to D. 
B to D is y 2 of 20. 
B to E is 17% inches. 
B to G is 24 inches. 
B to H is 31 inches or full length. 
Square out from points A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H. 
B to J is 1/6 of 19 plus y 2 inch. 
Square up from J to K. 
J to K is 1 inch. 
Draw A-K. 
E to F is % inch. 
H to I is % inch. 
Draw the center seam B-F-I. 
D to L is 1/3 of 19. 
L to M is 254 inches. 
Square up from M to N. 
O is halfway between N and line C. 
O to 7 is 54 inch. 
Draw line K-7. 

F to T is 1/3 of 19 plus 1 inch. 
Square down from T to R. 
R to S is V2 inch. 
M to P is 1/12 of 19. 
P to Q is V2 inch. 

Draw lines 7-Q and Q-T-S, which finishes the 
back. 



THE FOREPART 

D to W is V2 of breast. 

W to X is 3% inches for button stand and 
make-up. 

Square up from X to Y and down from X to 
13. 

D to U is 2/3 of 19, plus 1% inches. 

Square up from U to V. 

Z is half way between Y and V. 

Z to 3 is V4 inch. 

Draw line 3-0. 

3 to 5 is 54 less than K to 7. 

5 to 6 is % inch. 

Shape the shoulder 6-3 and the armhole 6-Q. 

11 to 9 is 2 1 / 4 inches. 
T to 8 is y 2 inch. 

Shape the side-seam Q-8-9-10. 

Q to 10 is the same length as Q to S. 

Y to 2 is 1/6 of breast. 

2 to 4 is 154 inches. 

Shape the gorge 3-4-2. 

12 to 13 is iy 2 inches. 

13 to 14 is y 2 inch. 
Shape the front 2-X-14. 

Shape the bottom 14-10, which completes the 
forepart. 

THE COLLAR 

Draw line 20-21. 

20 to 21 is 8% inches. 
Square down from 21 to 24. 

21 to 23 is 1 inch. 

23 to 24 is 1% inches. 
Draw line 20-26-23. 
20 to 22 is y 2 inch. 
Square down from 22 to 25. 

22 to 25 is 1% inches. 
Draw line 24-25. 

Shape the top 23-20, hollowing out 54 inch at 
point 26. 

Shape the bottom 24-25, filling out 54 inch at 
point 27. 

Draw lines 20-25, which completes the col- 
lar. For other sizes the collar should be made 
Vs inch longer, making the finished product 1 4 
inch larger for each size. 



Page Sixteen 




Diagram X 



Page Seventeen 



No Collar Barber's Coat 



Diagram XI 

HERE I show a draft made similar to the 
work coat with the exception that it does 
not button to the neck and has no lapel. 
The sleeve can be drafted either in one or two 
pieces as explained in the regular sack coat and 
the work coat. The same allowances are made 
thruout the draft for make-up and seaming as 
in the work coat. A narrow neck piece about 
two inches wide can be made to finish off the 
top of back. The facing of the forepart should 
be made so that it will be the same width at the 
top from point of shoulder so that it will cor- 
respond with the neck piece of the back. Breast 
size 36. 

From point 4 to 11 is 1% inches. 

Point Y to 9 is 1/6 of 19 plus 1*4 inches. 

Shape the shouider 10-9 as illustrated then 
shape the neck 9-11. The rest of the draft is 
the same as explained in the work coat. 



Page Eighteen 




Diagram XI 



Page Nineteen 



Hunting Coat 

Diagram XII 

SIMILAR to the work coat, this garment is 
drafted, and is intended to be made of cot- 
ton materials, such as khaki and the like. 
The back is split from Q to D, and at the waist 
from W to I. Allow a %-inch seam on each side 
of the split; a 1-mch inverted plait should be 
made as illustrated from point 30 to 31. The 
belt is made to go all around and to sew down 
on the back covering the center waist seam. 
The pockets are made with box plaits. The col- 
lar is made similar to the work coat collar as 
explained in the previous diagram. 



Page Tzventy 




Diagram XII 



Page Twenty-one 



Grocers' Gown 

Diagram XIII 

DRAFTED two sizes larger than the regular 
sack coat draft is the gown here illus- 
trated and described. This draft is made 
with a swinging collar similar to the work 
coat. With a few common sense changes this 
draft can be used for auto dusters, doctor's 
gowns and the like. 
Size 38. 

THE DRAFT 

Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F-G. 
A to B is IV2 inches. 
B to C is y 4 of 21. 
B to D is y 2 of 21. 
B to E is 17% inches. 
B to F is 25 inches. 
B to G is the full length or 46 inches. 
Square out from points A-B-C-D-E-F-G. 
G to H is 1^4 inches. 
Draw line A-H. 

B to J is 1/6 of 20 plus % inch. 
Square up from J to L. 
K to L is % inch. 
Draw line A-L. 

D to M is 1/3 of breast plus 2 x /4 inches. 
Square up from M to N. 
P is half way between and N. 
P to Q is % inch. 
Draw line L-Q. 

D to V is 2/3 of breast plus 1% inches. 
R is half way between M and V. 
Square down from R to S. 
S to U is Ys of breast. 

Draw lines Q-R and R-U, which completes 
the back. 



THE FOREPART 

Square up from V to Y. 

Y to 3 is 1/6 of breast plus l x /4 inches. 

Square up from 3 to Z. 

3 to Z is V2 inch. 
Draw line Z-P. 

7 to Z is Y4 inch less than L to Q. 

Drop point 7 three-eighths inch and shape 
shoulder 7Z and armhole 7R. 
H to 12 is 1/6 of breast. 
Draw line R-12. 
D to W is y 2 of 20. 
W to X is 4V 4 inches. 
Square up from X to R and down from X to 8. 

4 to 6 is Ys of breast. 
Square out from 6 to 13. 
6 to 5 is 2 inches. 
Shape the gorge Z-5. 

Point 8 is IY2 inches from line G. 

8 to 9 is V2 inch. 

Shape the front 6-9 and the bottom 9-12, 
which completes the forepart. 

For double needle machine, allow Y& inch lap 
at shoulder and side-seam of forepart. For a 
whole back, take off Y± inch from center seam. 

THE COLLAR 

20 to 21 is 8V2 inches. 
Square down from 21 to 23. 

21 to 22 is l 3 /4 inches. 

22 to 23 is 4 inches. 
Draw line 22-20. 

Square down from 20 to 24. 

20 to 24 is 4 inches. 

24 to 25 is iy 2 inches. 

Draw lines 23-25 and 22-20, hollowing V2 inch 
at point 26. 

Draw lines 20-25 and 22-23, which completes 
the collar. 

Use the same sleeves as the work coat. 



Page Tzuenty-two 




Diagram XIII 



Page Twenty-three 



Military Blouse 

Diagram XIV 



FOR double needle machine an extra allow- 
ance of Vs inch should be made on all seams 
of garments made from this draft. It is 
adaptable for cotton materials, such as khaki, 
duck, etc. The back should be made whole. 
One-quarter inch should be taken off from A to 
H. The sleeve draft is made similar to the sack 
coat sleeve and the collar is drafted similar to 
military collar, as explained on the barber's 
coat draft. 

Measurements : Breast, 36 inches ; waist, 32 
inches; length, 28 inches. 



THE DRAFT 

Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F-G. 

A to B is y 4 inch. 

B to C is y 4 of 19. 

B to D is y 2 of 19. 

B to E is I6V2 inches. 

B to F is 22 y 2 inches. 

B to G is the full length, or 28 inches. 

Square out from points A-B-C-D-E-F-G. 

G to H is iy 4 inches. 

Draw line A-H. 

B to I is 1/6 of 18 plus V2 inch. 

I to J is % inch. 

Draw line A-J. 

D to K is 1/3 of 18. 

K to L is 2 inches. 

Draw line L-M. 

N is half way between Q and M. 

is x /2 inch from N. 
P is 5 /4 inch from 0. 
Draw line J-P. 

1 to U is 1/6 of 18 plus V2 inch. 
H to W is y 4 of 18. 

Shape the side seam Q-X-V-W, which finishes 
the back. 



THE SIDE-BODY 

D to 8 is V2 of 18 plus V-/2 inches. 
Q to R is y> inch. 
R to S is 3 /4 inch. 
U to 13 is 1 inch. 

V to 14 is I 1 /? inches. 

Shape the side seam S-K-13-14-15, making it 
the same length as the back side seam. 

13 to 10 is y 4 of 18 plus y 4 inch. 

Draw line S-8, then shape the seam 8-10-11-12. 

Shape the bottom, 12-15, which completes the 
side-body. 

THE FOREPART 

D to Y is 2/3 of 18. 

Y to Z is 1% inches. 
Square up from Z to 2. 

2 to 3 is 1/6 of 18 plus V 2 inch. 
Z to 4 is y 4 inch. 

Draw line 4-N. 
5 to 6 is % inch. 

Shape the shoulder, 6-4, and the arm hole, 6-7. 
10 to 9 is 1 inch. 
16 to 11 is 1 inch. 
12 to 17 is iy 2 inches. 
Shape the side seam, 7-9-16-17. 
D to 18 is 18 inches. 
18 to 19 is 4 inches. 

Square up from 19 to 20 and down from 19 
to 26. 

3 to 21 is 1/6 of 18. 
21 to 23 is 1/6 of 18. 
23 to 24 is 1 inch. 

28 to 29 is % inch. 

Square 27-29-26, then shape the neck, front 
and bottom as illustrated. 

The pocket is made 11 inches from the breast 
line Z. 



Page Twenty-four 



XO 21 




Diagram XIV 



Page Twenty-five 



Boys' 



Work 

(Age 12) 
Diagram XV 



Coat 



MADE similar to the men's work coat is this 
draft except that it is drafted by boys' 
proportions. The identical idea as the 
men's coat is carried out in every detail. On 
the last page of this book will be found a com- 
plete list of boys' proportions with which any 
size can be drafted. With the system laid out 
as explained in this draft the reader should be 
able to draft any of the various style garments 
for boys. 

Measurements : Breast, 29 inches ; waist, 27 
inches; neck, 13 inches. 

THE DRAFT 

Draw line 1-2-3-4-5-6. 

1 to 2 is 1 inch. 

2 to 3 is % of 15. 

2 to 4 is % of 15, which is one-half of one 
size larger than the breast measure. 
2 to 5 is 14 inches. 
2 to 6 is 25% inches, the full length. 
Square out from points 1-2-3-4-5-6. 
6 to 7 is % inch. 
Draw line 1-7. 
From 2 to 8 is 1/6 of 14%. 
8 to 9 is % inch. 
Square up from 9-11. 
10 to 11 is % inch. 
Draw line 1-11. 
4 to 12 is 1/3 of 14%. 

12 to 13 is 1/12 of 14% plus % inch. 
Square up from 13 to 15 and down from 13 

to 14. 

16 is half way between 15 and line 3. 
16 to 17 is % inch. 
Draw line 11-17. 

13 to 18 is 1/12 of 14%. 
18 to 19 is % inch. 

14 to 21 is % inch. 

Shape the side seam 19-21, hollowing out % 
inch at point 20. 

THE FOREPART 

4 to 22 is 2/3 of 14%. 



22 to 23 is 1% inches. 
Square up from 23 to X. 
X to 25 is 1/6 of 14%. 
25 to A is 1% inches. 
A to 26 is % inch, 
Draw line 26-27-16. 
27 to 28 is % inch. 
Shape the shoulder 28-26. 

19 to 36 is % inch. 

20 to 37 is % inch. 

Shape the side seam 36-37-38, making it the 
same length as the back side seam. 

50 to 24 is % of the breast, or 14% inches. 

24 to 29 is 2% inches. 

29 to 30 is 1% inches. 

Square up from 30 to 31 and down from 30-29. 

8 to 33 is 1/6 of 14%. 

33 to 34 is 1/8 of 14%. 

33 to 32 is 1 inch. 

35 to 39 is 1% inches. 

39 to 40 is % inch. 

Shape the gorge front and bottom, which com- 
pletes the draft. 

THE COLLAR 

Draw line 41-42. 

41 to 42 is % of the collar plus % inch, which 
is 7 inches in this case. 

Square down from points 41-42. 

42 to 43 is 1 inch. 
Draw line 41-43. 

43 to 44 is 3 inches. 

44 to 45 is i/i inch. 

41 to 46 is 3% inches. 

Square out from 46 to 47, which is 1% inches. 

Draw line 41-47, then shape the lines 43-41 
and 45-47, which completes the collar. 

To figure the front waist measure you will 
find the following rule very practical, especially 
on smaller sizes. 

From 51 to 52 is % of 13%, the waist measure. 

52 to 53 is 1% inches and square down from 
53 to 59. 

The balance of the draft remains the same, 
as previously explained. 



Page Twenty-six 




Diagram XV 



Page Twenty-seven 



Bar Vest 



Diagram XVI 



ON the bar vest here illustrated all allow- 
ances are made for double needle machine 
stitched seams. The regular sack coat or 
work coat sleeves can be used with this vest. 
Breast size, 36; waist, 32 inches, length, 26V 2 
inches. 

THE DRAFT 

Draw line 1-2-3-4-5-6. 

1 to 2 is % inch. 

2 to 3 is %, of 19. 
2 to 4 is y 2 of 19. 

2 to 5 is the waist length, 17% inches. 
5 to 6 is 3 inches. 

Square out from points 1-2-3-4-5-6. 
5 to 7 is % inch. 

Draw line 1-7, then shape the centre back 
seam. 

2 to 8 is 1/6 of 18 plus % inch. 

8 to 9 is 1 inch. 

Draw line 1-9. 

4 to 10 is 1/3 of 18. 

10 to 11 is 2V2 inches. 

Square up from 11-12. 

14 is half way between line 3 and 12. 

14 to 15 is V2 inch. 

Draw line 9-15. 

41 to 16 is 2/3 of 18. 



16 to 17 is l 3 /4 inches. 
Square up from 17 to 22. 

18 is half way between 17-11. 

19 is y 2 of 16 from 7. This is y 2 of the waist. 
19 to 20 is iy 4 inches. 

Shape the side seam 18-20-21. 
41 to 27 is 18 inches. 

27 to 28 is 2Y 2 inches. 

28 to 29 is 1 inch. 

Square up from 29 to 30 and down from 29 
to 38. 

22 to 23 is 1/6 of 18 plus V 2 inch. 

23 to 24 is y 4 inch. 
Draw line 24-25-13. 
25 to 26 is y 2 inch. 

Shape the shoulder, 26-24, and arm hole, 26-18. 

35 to 36 is y 2 of 16. 

36 to 37 is 2 iiiches. 

Shape the side seam, 18-37-40, making it V2 
inch less than the back side seam. 

23 to 32 is 1/6 of 18. 

Square down from 32-33, which is 1/6 of 18. 

33 to 34 is % inch. 

38 to 39 is l 3 /4 inches. 

Shape the neck, front and bottom, which com- 
pletes the forepart. 

The collar of this draft should be made sim- 
ilar to the military collar of the barber's coat. 



Page Twenty-eight 




Diagram XVI 



Page Twenty-nine 



rhree Button Double Breasted Shawl Collar Mackinaw 



Diagram XVII 



YOU will note that this coat is drafted on a 
basis of two sizes larger than the sack 
coat. Every point should be carefully 
studied and memorized as this draft is the 
foundation of the mackinaw drafts that follow. 
Measurements: Breast 38 inches, length 33 
inches. 

THE DRAFT 

Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F. 

A to B is *4 of 21 plus % inch. 

B to C is % of 21. 

A to D is 17% inches. 

A to E is 25 inches. 

A to F is the full length or 33 inches. 

Square out from points A-B-C-D-E-F. 

F to G is IV-i inches. 

Draw line A-G. 

A to O is 1/6 of 21 plus % inch. 

Square up from O to P. 

to P is IV2 inches. 

C to H is 2/3 of 20 plus 2 inches. 

Square up from H to L. 

M is half way between L and line B. 

M to 11 is % inch. 

Draw line P-ll. 

H to N is 1 inch. 

Square out 1 inch from N to point 9. 

Draw line 11-N. 

H to J is V2 inch. 



Square down from J to K. 

K to 5 is 3 /4 inch. 

Shape the side-seam N-8-5. 

Plait in back *.:% inch as illustrated by 17-18. 

THE FOREPART 

C to R is 2/3 of 20 plus 1% inches. 

Square up from R to V. 

V to X is 1/6 of 20 plus V 2 inch. 

Drop shoulder V4 inch at point X; 

Draw line X-10. 

10 to X is'% less than P to 11. 

Shape the shoulder 10-X and the armhole 
10-9. 

8 to 7 is V2 inch. 

13 to 12 is 2V2 inches. 

Shape the side-seam 9-7-12-6, making it % 
more than the side-seam of back. 

C to S is 20 irches. 

S to T is 3% inches. 

T to U is 2% inches or V2 of button stand. 

Square up from U to W and down from U 
to Z. 

W to 14 is 1/6 of 20. 

Draw 15-14. 

Shape the gorge X-14 jnd the front 14-4. 

Sweep from point X, using X-6 as a radius to 
establish point Z. 

Shape the bottom 4-6, which completes the 
draft. 



Page Thirty 




Diagram XVII 



Page Thirty-one 




Drafting Shawl Collars 

Diagram XVIII 

THERE explain how shawl collars for macki- 
naws are drafted. If the stand is made % 
inch wider than that here illustrated, the 
collar should be drafted without the addition 
on Back and Forepart. 
Add Z A inch of stand on back, as illustrated. 
A to E is % inch. 
B to D is 3 A inch. 
Draw line E-D. 
Shape the shoulder D-C. 
Add the % inch on forepart, as illustrated. 
F to H is % inch. 
Shape the gorge H-G-R. 

COLLAR 

Extend the break J-G to L. 

S to L is the width of back plus V4 inch. 

Square down from L to M. 

L to M is Vs of breast. 

Draw line M-N. 

N is % inch from G-H. 

Square up from M to P. 

M to is % inch, the width of stand. 

Draw line O-G, the break. 

to P is V-fa inches. 

P to Q is V2 inch. 

Draw line M-Q. 

Shape the under-seam of collar M-C-K, as il- 
lustrated. 

Shape the outside seam of collar Q-R-K, which 
completes the draft. 



Page-Thirty-two 



Making A Whole Back 



Diagram XIX 




THIS shows how to make a whole back from 
a seam back. ABCDEHFG is the regular 
back. Draw line B-D. Place the back as 
indicated, so that the top and bottom point of 
the center seam will just touch the line B-D. 
Then split the back at the waist line from H to 
C, and take in %-inch plait as indicated by lines 
1 and 2. This will bring the entire center seam 
along the line B-D. 

Reshade the side-seam F-6. Then add % inch 
from 6 to E, the original length of side-seam. 

For a whole back, take off ^4 inch as indi- 
cated by the line 4-5. 

This back can also be used on striped goods 
with a center seam by not taking off the seam, 
as described heretofore. 



i c 

T£tIlJ(JtI<I/aiirar*rmn.n~— - ~ 
3 3 



B 



Page Thirty-three 



Convertible Collar Mackiaw 



Diagram XX 



THIS draft is made two sizes larger than the 
the regular sack coat draft. For double 
needle machine work bear in mind an extra 
allowance must be made at the shoulder, side 
and center back seams. Measurements: — 
Breast 36 inches, Length 34 inches. 

THE DRAFT 

Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F-G. 
A to B is an inch and a half. 
B to C is Ya of 20 inches. 
B to D is % of 20. 
B to E is 17% inches. 
B to F is 24 inches. 
B to G is the full length or 34 inches. 
Square out from points A-B-C-D-E-F-G. 
E to H is % inch. 
G to I is % inch. 
Shape the center seam A-H-I. 
A to J is 1/6 of 36 plus % inch. 
J to K is % inch. 
Draw line A-K. 
D to L is 1/3 of 19. 
L to M is 2 inches. 
Square up from M to N. 
O is half wav between N and line C. 
M to P is 1/12 of 19. 
P to Q is 3 A inch. 
Draw line O-Q. 
Square down from M to R. 
S to T is % inch. 

Shape the side seam Q T R, which finishes 
the back. 

THE FOREPART 

U is 2/3 of 19 from D. 

U to V is IV2 inches. 

Square up from V to W. 

X to W is 1/6 of 19 plus 1 inch. 

Draw line X 0. 

Z to Y is % inch. 



Shape the shoulder and armhole X-Y and 
Y-Q. 

2 to 25 is 2% inches. 

Take out Y± inch at point Q. 

Then shape the side seam Q-S 2-3, making it 
the same length as the side seam at the back. 

5 is 19 inches from line A-H. 

5 to 6 is 2% inches. 

6 to 7 is 1% inches, which gives us the center 
line. 

Square up from 7 to 9 and down from 7 to 14. 

7 to 8 is 3 inches or % the button stand. 
Square down from 8 to 15. 

17 is 3 4 inch below the waist line. 
Square 16-17-18. 
9 to 10 is % of. 19. 
Square out from 10 to 12. 
X to 11 is 14 of 19. 
11 .to 28 is 3% inches. 

Shape the neck, lapel front and bottom, which 
completes the forepart. 

THE COLLAR 

8 to 13 is 3% inches. 
X to 20 is % inch. 

Draw the crease line 13-20 31. 

20 to 21 is the same width as top of back K 
to A. 

Square down from 21-23. 

21 to 23 is 1/6 of 19. 

Draw line 23-22, which comes Ya inch below 
line X-ll, the neck. 
Square line 22-23-27. 
27-26 is Ya inch. 
Shape the back 23-26. 

23 to 24 is \Ya inches, the stand. 

24 to 25 is y 2 inch. 

25 to 26 is 3 inches. 
28 to 30 is % inch. 

Shape the bottom of collar 23-11-30. 
Draw the brake 24-22 and 25-11. 
Shape the outside line 26-30, which completes 
the draft. 



Page Thirty-four 




Diagram XX 



Page Thirty-five 



Military Collar Mackinaw 



Diagram XXI 



THIS draft is made 3 inches larger than ac- 
tual breast measure. It is drafted a size 
still larger for the better grade goods ; for 
cheaper make two sizes will do, similar to the 
shawl collar draft, as explained in a previous 
diagram. Measurements : Breast size, 38 inches ; 
length, 34 inches 

DRAFT 

Draw line M-A-C-B-D-E-F. 



M to A is 



% inch. 



A to C is y 4 of 21. 

A to B is y 2 of 21. 

A to D is 17% inches. 

A to E is 24 inches. 

A to F is the full length, or 34 inches. 

Square out from points M-A-C-B-D-E-F. 

F to G is 1V4 inches. 

Draw line A-G. 

A to L is 1/6 of 21 plus Y% inch. 

Square up from I; to M. 

L to M is 1% inches. 

B to I is 1/3 of 20y 2 plus 2 inches. 

Square up from I to J. 

P is halfway between S and J. 

Draw line N-P. 

I to Q is 1/12 of 21. 

Q to R is 3 /4 inch, 

Draw line P-R. 

I to H is % inch. 

Square down from H to K. 

K to O is iy± inches. 

Draw line R-0. 

Shape the bottom, G-0. 

For a whole back take off Yi inch on line M-G. 

THE FOREPART 

B to T is 2/3 of 20y 2 plus 1% inches. 
Square up from T to U. 
U to V is 1/6 of 20y 2 plus % inch. 
Drop point of shoulder Y± inch at V. 



11 is half way between P and S. 

Draw line V-ll. 

V to 10 is Yk inch less than N to 



P. 

the 



armhole 



Shape the shoulder 10-V and 
10-13-R. 

Take out Y± inch at point R. 

4 to 5 is Y± inch. 

6 is 2y 2 inches from line H-K. 

Shape the side-seam R-4-6-7 and make it % 
inch longer than R-O. 

W is y 2 of breast, or 20y 2 inches from line 
M-G. 

W to X is 2y 2 inches. 

X to Y is 2 inches. 

Square up from Y to 1 and down from Y to 17. 

1 to 2 is 1/6 of 20y 2 . 

V to 3 is y 4 of 2oy 2 . 

Shape the gorge and front, V-3-9-15-16. 
Sweep from point V-7 to 17. 
Draw line 17-16. 

Shape the bottom, as illustrated, which com- 
pletes the forepart. 

THE COLLAR 

The collar for a size 38 should measure 15y 2 
inches. The under-collar should be drafted 1 
inch larger, making it measure finished 16y 2 
inches. 

Draw line 1-2-3-4. 

1 to 2 is iy 2 inches. 

2 to 3 is 8y 2 inches. 

3 to 4 is % inch. 

Square down from points 1-2-3-4. 
3 to 6 is 1/12 of 20y 2 . 

6 to 7 is iy 2 inches. 

7 to 8 is 3y± inches. 
Square out from 8 to 10. 
2 to 5 is lYi inches. 
Draw lines 6-2 and 7-5. 

5 to 9 is 3 inches. 

Shape the bottom, 8-9, and the front, 9-5-2, 
which completes the collar. 



Page Thirty-six 




Diagram XXI 



Page Thirty-seven 



Stout Mackinaw 



Diagram XXII 

HEREWITH is illustrated a draft for a size 
42 stout mackinaw. This coat is drafted 
on a basis of two sizes larger than the 
stout sack. The same rule applies to the dis- 
tribution of fat as is explained for the regular 
stout sack coat. For a cheap grade of goods, 
the vee can be split similar to the stout work 
coat. 



Page Thirty-eight 




Diagram XXII 



Page Thirty-Nine 



Shawl Collar Mackinaw Raglan Sleeve 

Diagram XXIII 



THE method used in drafting this sleeve can 
be applied to overcoats. The draft is made 
two sizes larger than the sack coat. Every 
point should be studied and memorized. Meas- 
urements: Breast size 36; length 33 inches. 

THE DRAFT 

Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F-G. 
A to B is % inch. 
B to C is V 4 of 20. 
B to D is % of 20. 
B to E is 17% inches. 
B to F is 24 inches. 
B to G is 33 inches, full length of coat. 
Square out from points A-B-C-D-E-F-G. 
G to H is 1% inches. 
Draw line B-H. 
B to R is 1/6 of 20. 
Square up from R to S. 
R to S is IV2 inches. 
D to J is 1/3 of 19 plus 2 inches. 
Square up from J to O. 
Draw line 3-P. 
J to Q is 1/12 of 20. 
Square out from Q to T. 
Q to T is 1 incn. 
Draw line S-T. 

L to M is 1/3 of 20 plus 1 inch. 
J to K is i inch. 
Draw line K-M-N. 

Shape the side-seam T-M-N, which completes 
the back. 

THE FOREPART 

D to X is 2/3 of 19 plus 1% inches. 
Square up from X to 4. 



4 to 5 is 1/6 of 19 plus V2 
Square down from 5 to 7. 

5 to 7 is 8 /4 incn. 
Draw line 7-12. 

Shape the armhole 7-12-P. 
Take y 4 inch at point T. 
1/0 



inch. 



M to 13 is y 2 inch. 

V to 14 is 2V2 inches. 
Draw line 13-15. 
Shape the side-seam 

inch more than T-N. 
D to Y is 19 inches. 

Y to Z is SV2 inches. 



P-13-15, making it % 



Z to 3 is 2V2 inches, x / 2 of button stand. 
Square up from 3 to 6 and down from 3 to 10. 
6 to 8 is 1/6 of 19. 
Draw line 4-8. 



8 to 9 is 10 inches. 

Sweep from point. 7, using 7-15 as a radius to 
establish point 10. 

Draw line 15-10. 

Shape the gorge, lapel and front and bottom, 
which completes the forepart. 



THE SLEEVE 

X to 12 is iy 4 inches. 

12 to 40 is V 2 of 19. 

Square down from 40 to 20. 

Make an arch from point U, using U-S as a 
radius. 

Take the distance U-S and make an arch, 
using 40 as a center. 

These two arches intersect at point 34. 

Draw line 34-40. 

32 is half way between 31 and 40. 
34 to 35 is 1 inch. 

Draw line 35-32. 

X to 21 is iy 4 inches. 

X to 22 is iy 4 inches. 

Square down from X to 23. 

23 to 24 is 1 inch. 

24 to 25 is lyj inches. 
24 to 26 is iy 4 inches. 

Draw lines 21-25 and 22-26, hollowing out % 
inch. 

Square out from line 23 to 29. 

24 to 29 is 7y 4 inches. 

Square down from 29 to 30. 

29 to 30 is 1% inches. 

20 to 39 is y 2 inch. 

Draw lines 34-40 and 40-30. 

Shape the inseam line 35-32-37. 

Take the distance 12-7 and make an arch, 
using point 32 as a pivot. 

Take the distance 12-7 and 
using point 12 as the pivot, 
point 33. 

Draw line 33-32. 

Draw line 33-36. 

33 to 36 is 1 inch. 

Shape the front part of sleeve 36-12-21. 
Shape the inseam 33-38, which completes the 
top sleeve. 

UNDER SLEEVE 

40 to 17 is % inch. 
Draw line 17-30. 
Shape line 17-W. 

Draw the bottom 30-26, which completes the 
draft. 



make an arch, 
intersecting at 



Page Forty 




Diagram XXIII 



Page Forty-one 



Making Longs and Shorts From Regular Block 

Diagram XXIV 

MAKING Longs and Shorts from the Normal Block Pattern. The changes herein illus- 
trated are made from the normal block pattern, which is figured on a basis of 5 ft. 8 in. 
in height. The short is figured for a 5 ft. 4 in. in height and the long is figured for a 
6 ft. in height. 



BACK. 

BACDEFGH is the normal, 5 ft. 8 in. 

To raise the height to 6 feet give V2 inch 
from B to 1 and A to 2. 

From C to 3 on point of shoulder give y 4 inch 
or y> the distance that the height is raised 
from A to 2. 

At the waistline lower 1 inch from E to 4 and 
H to 5. This amount is exactly y 4 inch for 
every inch in height the man is above the 
normal. 

Lengthen the coat from F to 6 and G to 7 two 
inches. (This amount can vary according to the 
style, but it should always be at least 1 inch 
longer than the normal.) 

For the short, that is to lower the height to 
a 5 ft. 4, you will note that from A to 9 and B 
to 10 are V2 inch each; from C to 8 % inch. 
("This is practically the same as the long, only 
the change is made in the opposite direction.) 

Shorten the waistline as indicated from E to 
H and H to 12, which are 1 inch each. 

Shorten the garment from F to 13 and G to 
14, which are 1 inch each. 

FOREPART. 

LMNOPQRSTU is the normal forepart, 5 feet 
8 inches. 

To make a long or a 6-foot draw line L-N-17 
from armhole notch through shoulder point. 

N to 17 is V2 inch. 

M to 18 is % inch. 

to 19 is y 4 inch. 



Reshape 
trated. 



the shoulder and gorge as illus- 



Draw line L-18. 

Lower the waist 1 inch from Q to 20 and T 
to 21. 

Lower the length of coat from R to 22 and S 
to 23, which are 2 inches each. 

Reshape the side-seam. 

Lower the pocket y> inch from XX to 27 and 
XX to 28. 

To make a short 5 foot 4 you do the opposite 
across the shoulder and neck as in the long. 

N to 31 is y 2 inch. 

M to 32 is y 4 inch. 

to 34 is y 4 inch. 

Reshape the shoulder and the gorge and the 
armhole 8-32. 

Shorten the waist 1 inch from Q to 35 and T 
to 36. 

Shorten the coat 1 inch from R to 37 and S 
to 38. 

Reshape the side-seam and raise the pocket 
y 2 inch from XX to 41 and XX to 42. 
SLEEVE. 

For long, add y 4 inch from V to 24 and re- 
shape the ball of sleeve. 

Lengthen the sleeve 1 inch from Y to 25 and 
Z to 26. 

Reshape the outside seam. 

For a short, take off y 4 inch from V to 30 and 
reshape the ball of sleeve W-30-L. 

Shorten sleeve 1 inch from Y to 39 and Z to 
40. 

Reshape the side-seam. 

For all heights for every inch over or under 
5 ft. 8 in., the normal, lengthen or shorten the 
sleeve y 4 inch as the case may be. 



Page Forty-two 




Diagram XXIV 



Page Forty-three 



Mail-Order Changes 



T 



HE following diagrams explain in detail 
varying changes used in mail order houses. 
These changes are made to one degree, or 
Vi inch on square and sloping shoulders and % 
on stooping and erect forms. The same prin- 
ciple applies to the various degrees from J 4 to 
3 4 inch. 




SLEEVE 

1 to 5 is % inch. 

Reshape the ball of sleeve. 

DIAGRAM C 

Making a stoop from the normal block. 

BACK 

Swing in the back as illustrated. 

H to 9 and G to 8 is % inch. 

I to 10 is *4 inch. 

J to 11 is % inch. 

Reshape the back as illustrated. 



FOREPART 

Swing the forepart forward % of an inch, 
using the notch of armhole as a pivot. 
A to 3 and 2 to 3 is % inch each. 
B to 4 is % inch. 
Reshape shoulder front and armhole. 



Diagram A 

DIAGRAM A 

Making a square shoulder from the normal 
block. 



BACK 

A to 1 and B to 2 is 

G to 3 is % inch. 

Reshape the neck and shoulder. 



Vs inch. 



E to 5 is % 
D to 4 is V 4 



FOREPART 

inch, 
inch. 



D to 4 is 1/4 inch. 
Reshape the shoulder. 




T 



SLEEVE 

6 to 7 is }4 inch. 
Reshape the ball of sleeve. 

DIAGRAM B 

HESE diagrams show how to make a slop- 
ing shoulder from the normal block. 

BACK 



Diagram B 

DIAGRAM D 

Making an erect from the normal block. 
The change is made the opposite from 
stoop. 



the 



F to 6 is Vi inch. 
Reshape the shoulder. 

FOREPART 

B to 2 is Vi inch. 
C to 3 is 14 inch. 
D to 4 is 14 inch. 
Reshape the shoulder and armhole. 



BACK 

H to A and G to H is % inch each. 
F to 6 is % inch. 
Reshape the back. 



FOREPART 

A to 3 and 3 to 4 is %. 
B to 5 is %. 
Reshape the front. 



Page Forty-four 





Diagram D 



MAKING A WIDE BACK 

THIS diagram illustrates the change I make 
in making a back % inch wider than the 
normal block pattern. 
A to 1 is 3 /4 inch. 
B to 2 is 1 inch. 
C to 3 is % inch. 

Reshape the back as indicated by the dotted 
lines. 



FOREPART 



G to 7 is V 2 inch. 

D to 4 is % inch. 

Extend the forepart at front % inch as illus- 
trated by the dotted lines. Reshape the shoulder 
and armhole, making the shoulder to correspond 
with the shoulder of back. 

3 to 6 is % inch. 

Reshape the side-seam. 

SLEEVES 

Take % inch off head of top sleeve, as illus- 
trated by dotted line. Then hollow out under 
sleeve Yx inch, as illustrated by line L-F. 



Making A Wide Back 

[Mail Order Changes, Continued on Next Page] 



Page Forty-five 




Diagram E 



DIAGRAM E 

Making a long and short neck. 

BACK 



to U and H to S is % inch each. 
to V and H to T is x /4 inch each. 
Reshape the neck and shoulder. 



FOREPART 

Draw line C-A from notch through shoulder 
point. 

A to I and A to J is % inch each. 
to M and to L is *4 inch each. 
Reshape shoulder and neck. 



Making A Box Back From A Regular Sack Coat 



BACK 




FOREPART 

From 18 to 19 is 1 inch. Draw line 21-20-19 so as to make the side seam straight. Reshape 
the bottom. Measure side seams so that they are equal in length, which completes the change. 




Page Forty-six 



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Page Forty-seven 



Seek Knowledge — f 

Empty Your Purse Into Your Brains I 

— Buy Books | 

117HEN you are in doubt as to I 

™ ™ grading patterns and haven't § 

the time to figure it out for your- 1 

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and most stylish salable designs in sack coats, overcoats, vests, pants, cotton I 

garments, etc., or some necessary bit of information slips out of your memory, 1 

then it is that these text books demonstrate their worth. 1 




"Grading Book" $15.00; "Designing Sack Coats and Vests" $15.00; "De- 
signing Overcoats" $15.00; "Designing Pants" $10.00; "Drafting Cotton 
Garments" $10.00; "Men's, Women's and Boys' Proportion Book" $2.00 



Patterns with a "Punch" 

We Supply Hundreds of Manufacturers 
Continually. Why Not You? 




^ Ck»%^^»C*»l f^£(-*xw P ro P° r t' i( >n Book FREE to purchasers of one or more of the text books. Liberal = 
g Wf'VWUl V^I. 1 CI • Discounts will be made those purchasing the entire set of Books. p 

I THE CLOTHING DESIGNER CO. 70 Fifth Ave., New York I 

^AlllllillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllM .Niiillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllilll! 

Are You Equipped 
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We teach pattern drafting, grading 
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We have special courses for drafts- 
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Our twenty different courses take 
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Write for literature, etc. 




All kinds of patterns used by woolen, worsted, 
work and cotton garment manufacturers sup- 
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Harry Simons Designing Studio The Clothing Designer Co. 



70 Fifth Avenue 



New York, N. Y. 



70 Fifth Avenue, New York, N. Y. 



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